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The New Colony Grill Has Big Shoes to Fill... with Pizza

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Here in Connecticut, pizza can be a sensitive topic. Frank Pepe's in New Haven is a legend and they own the hearts of many a southern New Englander. Down here in Fairfield County there’s Colony Grill in Stamford, another legend that is considered by many to be the pinnacle of CT pizza.

I am not here for a pizza debate, but for the record I am a Colony man. Everyone has their favorites but give me a sausage pie and I am a happy camper. Or perhaps a hot oil, another crowd favorite.

Like Pepe’s before them, Colony is now doing what was once unthinkable. They are opening another location, in Fairfield, the same town that Pepe’s spun off into. Could Fairfield become the epicenter of Pizza in Connecticut? Can this unstoppable force coexist in the same town an immovable object? I’m sure the locals won’t mind finding out.

The big question on every Colony-lover’s mind is “Will it be the same?” Most importantly, does it taste the same and second, does it feel the same? Colony is a legend, but not just for the yummy pizza. There’s the whole vibe in that place. It looks like a bar out of the seventies, possibly a bar in your uncle’s basement. The paneled walls are covered with homemade cartoon artwork, old photos of military men, cops and other vintage photos, patches and décor. It’s all authentic and impossible to duplicate without years of natural accumulation.

Colony is usually packed and you’d better have patience after you order, especially on a Friday night. No problem, have a few beers while you wait. Don’t ask for a menu, a burger or a salad either. And I hope you brought cash.

Sounds like a hassle, but it’s all worth it. It’s part of the Colony pride. No frills, no bells and whistles, just great food, great prices and a great atmosphere. It’s the ultimate word-of-mouth marketing story.

Can the new place measure up? I’ve heard that the owners are taking this seriously, even matching the ovens right down to the model number. You can’t replicate years of pictures on the walls, but they are asking for customers to donate photos of police, firemen and veterans to carry on the tradition started in Stamford. I think that’s a good start.

With Colony, it’s got to be about the love. It’s a sacred institution… as much that a pizza place can actually be sacred. You’d better have a stellar product and an authentic atmosphere. Once you lose that, it becomes just another pizza place. And that would be a shame.

So far, it sounds like they are on the right track. I know I will make a special trip up to Fairfield just to check it out. It will never replace the original, but hopefully they can add to the legend and carry the torch. (A torch fueled by delicious hot oil.)

You’ll never get a definitive answer about which pizza is better, Colony or Pepe’s. Who is the better spin-off might be the real question. I look forward to doing the research.

You can click here for a great article on the new Colony Grill.

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